Guangzhou City Through the Eyes of a Tea Man
The first time I didn't like this city. We came there to meet with representatives of one of the tea factories and to wander around Fangcun. The hotel was near the highway, it was noisy, large-scale, five-level interchanges, roads with 8 lanes in one direction... A real concrete jungle.
There is another Guangzhou
Then, when we arrived to live there, the city seemed completely different. We settled in a new gated community, which had its own pond, an open-air swimming pool, a gym, and security. Guangzhou began to seem much more attractive! The first few months we worked a lot and almost never left the house when we weren't in the tea shops. Then, with each passing week, it started to get worse :) Then we got Wing Chun.
Ip Man Style
For those who haven't seen the movie Ip Man, I'll say that this is a trend in Chinese martial arts, a southern style. The places where we lived are practically the cradle of Wing Chun, and the city of Foshan, where Ip Man lived, and Guangzhou itself. We really liked this sport, we went to training with the Chinese, we did it outside.
Little Europe
Then we wanted some cultural entertainment. And we discovered Shamien. A few words about it separately. As is known, there were two opium wars in China, the essence of which was that the Europeans wanted to sell opium in China, and the authorities of the Celestial Empire tried to limit these supplies. But China was heavily dependent on European traders and needed a place where foreign trade and diplomatic missions could be located during the war. Shamien became this place. Geographically, Shamien is a small island in the Pearl River, which flows from the city directly into the South China Sea. Probably, European merchants and diplomats found it convenient and safe that this place was surrounded by water and not so easy to get there. So they built two bridges, put iron gates on them and guards who didn't let the Chinese in, and started building up the island with beautiful buildings, churches, laid paving stones... Of course, the island returned to Chinese control, but when you get there, you really take a break from everything that tires you in Chinese society. They even speak more quietly there. Even the Chinese! So you get tired of work, get ready, go for a walk around Shamien, three subway transfers and it's like you've arrived in old Europe. Another world. Yes, if you're traveling and don't live in China, perhaps this place won't make such a strong impression. But if you live in Guangzhou, going there for a walk is like a breath of fresh air.
By the way, there is even a building of the Soviet trade mission there! I don't know what they were trading at that time, but the building reflects the architecture of the early Soviet Union - red brick, strict lines, nothing superfluous)
Football Passions in Asia
I also remember going to football. There are two teams in Guangzhou: Guangzhou R&F and Guangzhou Evergrande. They are very similar to Man United and Man City. The same club colors, the same ambitions. Evergrande played in the Asian Champions League that year and we went to a match with the Japanese team Kashiwa Reysol. There were about 50 Japanese fans, given the ardent love of the Chinese for the Japanese, they sat separately and were guarded by about 200 local riot police. And the whole way they were insulted by the forty-thousand-seat red stadium. I remember how I was struck by the attitude of the Japanese footballers: after a lost match, the entire team approached this yellow handful of people and bowed, apologizing for the defeat. With the wild roar of the Chinese stands, it looked mesmerizing.
We also walked a lot along the Pearl River embankment, near the Canton Tower, one of the highest in Asia. Of course, the embankment and bridges are beautifully illuminated, it is pleasant to walk there. And it is better to do it in the evening.
Conclusion
These are probably all the main impressions of Guangzhou that are not related to tea. By and large, all huge megalopolises are similar to each other. And when you live in such a city, you always need to find a few nice places and a few nice people who will help you switch off from the frantic rhythm of a multi-million anthill.
Tex: Vinogradov Andrey
Photo: Polyakov Alexander
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